Thursday, April 30, 2009

The Bay Islands Honduras

SO my bus to El Salvador was so good on King Quality I had to take it again so I checked my all faithful Lonely Planet 2007 guide (which every traveler is using Ill have you know) and left the black sand beaches of surf spot Playa El Zonte for San Salvador to catch the 12 pm bus to Honduras. I get there and my out of date book has failed to mention that King Class one step above Quality class doesnt go until the next day but I can take Quality class to Honduras at 2 pm and there is a bathroom on board...fine give me that ticket...sorry man (In Spanish) but we cannot sell tickets until 1pm...stupid rule, they say this as they sit there and do nothing, Im actually not sure why they would be paid until 1 pm but I don't run the station. There is quite the difference between Quality and King class; for instance, I have to bring snacks as they don't serve food or drinks on the bus and there is no one to serve it to me...BS and the bus is no where near as nice...fine Ill live. We head out of the city and Ive got the entire back section to myself when we hit some random parking lot to pick ppl up...but do we pick up ppl ??? nooooo we pick up several hundred kilos of boxes of cargo goods being shipped to Honduras, no problem, they will put this under the bus that's why my suitcase is beside me...noooo we will block the bathroom door and use 15 seats to stack the cargo in...seriously like WTF?? so now Im alone in the back surrounded by Ebna Martins Honduras entire house which she has clearly decided to use King Quality lines as her moving company.
Needless to say we are pulled over by Antinarcoticos on the highway and they come aboard...Im sorry but as an antinarcotico would you not check the boxes that take up half a bus or would you flirt with me and ask for my passport and whether Im going to Honduras for business or pleasure (In Spanish) after a quick wink and a beaming smile the antinarcoticos leave the bus and allow us on our way...no wonder drugs are rampant in Central and South America. Once at the border me and the only other white guy have to pay the $3 entrance tax which I paid on the way thru to El Salvador but I make no complaints. It is here that I meet Ken, a Vancouver Canadian on his way to La Ceiba which is where I catch my ferry to Bay Islands...perfect, it is travel love at first site...he speaks fluent Spanish which is perfect and I have someone to get off the bus with in San Pedro Sula...this is important because white ppl are swarmed off the bus especially at night...you wanna taxi, by like 14 ppl if you're lucky and then before you collect your thoughts you're being dragged to a cab. I am extremely good at walking away for a minute collecting my thoughts and letting vultures walk while I determine what I need to ask and am ready to debate over charges. So we get off the bus, talk a guy down to $5 from $20...this is in the guide book what you should pay and off we go to a hostal...both Ken and I are done with budget accommodation, it just isn't worth it but we end up at one anyway and are to tired to argue because it is midnight and we travel again in the morning. I will never get over how the buses pick up in the most random spots...it is rare to find an actual station, more often then not it is a road side or a gas station with a small hut beside it...if you didn't go by cab there or were local you would not know where it was but just stand on the highway and hop on to the one that goes by...yes you can do this course know Spanish or God knows where you'll end up. Many a traveler has ended up on the wrong bus going the opposite direction.
Ken and I say our goodbyes in La Ceiba and Im off to the islands via a beautiful ferry called Galaxy Wave...I have chosen Roatan which is a backpacker island but a step up from Utila which I hear is a younger crowd and let's face it Im 30. I meet a couple from Wisconsin on the boat and they are a great duo as well as Matt the 23 year old from Maine who shares a cab with me to West End, the hip part of the island. Matty's cute and we become friends right away.
I check into Hotel Dolphin which is good enough even if my room does seriously smell but it is in good location and I have my own bathroom for 4 nights which is a plus. The next morning I start diving and am upset to find out that whale sharks are only on the island of Utila which would seriously have changed my plans..too late now. I dive with Coconut Tree Divers and the owner shares my birthday plus my dives are only $25 each so I do 5 over the next few days. I did a wreck deep dive which was cool and meet a bunch of great ppl who I dine and drink with over the coming week.
Matty - my Maine cutie
Laura - the Californian beauty who is also my dive buddy and heading to Mexico (I wonder how thats going for her with the flu business and all)
Calla - now check this out...Calla's dad owns Spinickers pub in Victoria on Vancouver island and my friend Shelbey used to work there and they know eachother...I find this so incredible Im here writing about it.
There were alot of great ppl on this island where the streets are made of sand but Im paying by the minute for this computer so we'll chat later.
On one of my last nights I realize Im sharing my room with a cockroach....ugh, I hate those damn things but I figure if he lives under the bed and doesn't bother me then Im fine with him...Im not but I aint chasing the thing to kill him. Sunday, Les, a Toronto native and I go for Champagne breakfast. We share, eggs benedict and red snapper...this seems like a strange choice but it is champagne breakfast and it is 11 am so really its brunch. We are at Lighthouse grill and if you go to Roatan try this out on Sundays. $15 USD and Im not kidding, you can pour your champagne into an orange juice for a mimosa and boom they refill the glass...this is also why Les and I go our seperate ways for afternoon naps before meeting everyone for Argentinian later. I share with Brett at Argentinian...Filet Mignon (2 giant steaks...just ok) and garlic shrimp...all in not bad but not great...Im an Alberta girl, some beef cant be beat but I say nothing.
The next morning Im off to the ferry dock and headed North on route to Belize. On the bus from La Ceiba to San Pedro Sula, I become the acquaintance of Julio Robinson...oh my...Julio talks to me for 5 seconds and then plops beside me on the bus. He is a 40 year old black man who was born and raised on Roatan. He is a Realtor as well he runs adventure packages and is already planning my next trip out there...yea no. He not only talks my ear off but is starting to weird me out..in fact I text my mom with his name so that just in case. At our pit stop he walks on the other side of the rope right behind me and seriously Im ready to kung fu him like back off, you're not my boyfriend and if you were I would punch you for being this close and acting all macho. he doesn't eat just sits with me and stares at me while I do...I do everything I can to make it clear Im not looking at him and trying to avoid conversation but instead of getting it he says maybe Ill drive up to Puerto Cortes (where I have to spend the night for the ferry to Belize tomorrow) and I want to take you out to dinner....Im like Im actually really tired so Im just going to sleep tonight but Ill text you if Im up (he has given me every number he has, website and email)
This happens for the next hour until Thank God we hit San Pedro Sula and it is time to part ways. Let me describe myself this day...I do this purposely because I attract too much attention being tall and blonde. Im e\wearing capri pants which Im pretty sure are gross because Im so sweaty, I have not showered nor am wearing deodorant, my hair is a tangled mess of grossness on top my head and Im pretty sure I smell quite bad by now and he is still hitting on me...some ppl's children.
I say goodbye and promise to text...uh huh and hit my next bus to Puerto Cortes.
This is a small mini van with Air con...YEY!!! that they fill and by fill I mean ppl are standing and the guy beside me has my backpack on his lap for an hour...ho doesnt seem to mind so I go to pay for him when the guy comes to collect...Instead I end up paying for 2 ppl and he pays for himself, I would complain but it is a dollar and this is my fault...what a day
A huge cacident on highway has a truck standing straight up and in between two trees....I need to review what happened
The backpack carrying guy shows me a nice hotel which looks really scary form the outside but turns out to be great...big double bed, nice bathroom, very clean, no bugs, air con, and cable tv with lots of English channels and the girl brings you a fresh jug of ice water...jackpot Hotel Spring Palace if you're ever thru this way. One funny thing, the ashtray has 2 condoms in it...I consider taking them to freak them out but I don't.
I have more to write but happy hour on computers is ending so see you soon

Turns out Matty and I got very overcharged on our cab ride in so Im determined not to do this again

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Nica sum up and El Salvador

SDO I loved Niucaragua and all the people I met there...the funny thing is that this was a place I intended to see for a day or two and blow through and leave but fell in love with. If you remember my entrance to Nicaragua then you will know that it must have taken something speciaql for me to have such a change of heart.
Granada is such an exquisite city, it has the most beautiful architecture and I feel sad everytime I see someone litter here, which is alot. The only ppl using garbnage canbs are tourists despite the signs. That is one downfall, the others are the amount of kids begging and sniffing glue on the streets...you will walk by many kids passed out in the middle of a sidewalk and you cant sit on a sidewalk patio without being asked for money or food or having someone try to sell you something...its just a way of life and it takes a lot to get used to. Then there are the dogs, lots of dogs and they are hungry also. Then you have the men...oh the men. Im sure all women get attention from the men but man if you are blonde, dye your hair. You cant walk a street without at least 15 comments, one guy almost rode his bike into a building blowing kisses at Laura and I...personally I wish he had because I would have laughed. Alyson, Laura, and I walked by a guy and he said...hey baby, wanna eff baby and I wrote this in the PG version...I felt like saying of course I do, where have you been all my life...loser. I didnt, we just ignored it and kept on walking. So after leaving the comfort of the Corn Islands which I still miss we came back to Granada and the noise hit us right away..there are no cars on the corn Islands so honking horns and a busy street really trips you out after 8 days away from it all. I also missed the coconut bread...thats right I said coconut bread, I still crave it. Laura and I checked into Amigos hotel instead of the bed bug infested Hostal Oasis for our last night together before I hit El Salvador. When she went to shower later she noticed her clothes were missing from her being on her bed. We searched everywhere and found her underwear, shorts, 2 tops stuffed under a shelf on the floor which is really strange because we are still confused asd to who would take such items but we are leaning towards one of the two weirdos from Vancouver...a young quiet girl or this weird old man...must be the BC bud but these two were slightly coocoo. Anyway she is still missing her black sleeping shorts which she has been wearing for days so God knows why this item would be stolen, its like taking someones underwear...I love this girl but I wouldnt borrow her worn gonch but thats just me.
So the next morning Im on the road again and by myself for the first time in a long time and right away I miss Laura and all the friends I made along the way...I hate that abouty traveling, you have so many good memories and you see so much youçll never forget but then you have to say goodbye...of course Laura will be a person like Martin who I never lose touch with. I took the bus to Managúa which is supposed to be sketchy but everyone was niv´ce to me and helped me out alot. From there I jumped ontyo the King Quality bus headed for San Salvador. If you are ever in Central AMerica, make sure you are on one of these buses at some time. I have stayed in crappier ´hotels and Air Canada has nothing on the service of these buses...you get lunch,´unlim,ited drinks, a bathroom, movies, and the seat reclines so far it is like a bed and comes with leg and foot rest...Pure awesomeness...not to mention they dont stop every ten feet like the local buses and no one is allowed to get in to sell you something or beg. Now and then the ppl who get on with bags of water are handy but hey the bus already has it. Did I mention they have squeegee kids in Managua...still funny oh yea and Scotia bank and Wendys...I guess you are never to far from home. We got in late to San Salvador and I checked into Hotel Puerto Bus because it is at the bus station and has free internet and breakfast. It also had hot water and anyone who has traveled Central America knows this is something special.=..and by the way ladies, our hair isnt completely screwed, a hot water shower makes it good again...yey now I dont have to shave my head as originally planned....good show
At the border to El Salvador the bus takles care of everything...a guy form immigration gets on, looks at your passport and asks if you speak Spanish. As a white person I say muy poco meaning very little because otherwiser I know he is going through my bag...just word on the street. The guy is nice to me and waves the 10 entrance fee ¿sometimes I love being a blonde Canadian? then another guy comes on and asks the same thing and rechecks your passport. The bus starts away but is pulled over into a weird area where sure enough two bags are taken off the bus and completely ransacked, it wqould give Tel Aviv airport a run for its money...guess whose bag did not get ransacked, thats right mine...so next time they ask if you speak Spanish say muy poco because they cant be bothered to question an idiot while digging through their skivvies. They do however releáse the hounds throughout the undercarriage of the bus to sniff God knows what out but whatever it is donty bring it because you will be caught with it. So all these passpo´rt checks and you think I would get a stamp...nope, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvadort and NIcaragua share a stampe so thats all you get for free...shoulda paid ¨10. So El Salvador....pupusas galore and I love pupusas so jackpot and the tacos damn...the buses are crowded and the ppl friendly and I loaded into a cramped chicken bus for Playa El Zonte a black sand beach on the Pacific coast...I stayed aty Olas Permamente and it was beautiful...hammocks and hammock chairs overlooking the sea and a huge room with bathroom and air con for 20...cant be beatif he had internet I had more time I would have stayed and taken a surf lesson. Huge littering problem here as well...I dont get why everyone is hell bent on littering and then turning around and saying how beautiful their country is....keep dumping trash in the sea and you wont say that soon. There is a honmking system throughout the countries..2 quick beeps means a taxi or bus has room and can fit you in and more often then not it would not be safe for another person by North American standards...for instanmce local buses in El Salvador or old American yellow school buses painted up like wicked vans in Australia and there are often 3 ppl to each seat...its funny to look at. Alot of ppl hitch rides, in fact I saw 2 cops flag over a truck from the highway and get a ride in the pick up part...if I had a camera I wouldnt have taken the photo to avoid being shot but it was funny. Today on my way to San Salvador to get a bus to Honduras I was waiting on the side of the highway for a bus...,this is how they do it when a truck with two ladies and a man pulled over to give me a ride...I tried to refuse but they insisted so I jumped in the back....I know my dad is freaking out while reading this but it really was ok...Love you daddy bears. So now Im at the bus station wiating to leave on the 3 pm bus to San Pedro Sula in Honduras with plans of being on the island Roatan by tomorrow evening to do some diving. Im running low on time so after Honduras its Belize and then Im home until May 22 when I hit Mexico with the fam and then Asia in Aug with Kathy...I hope everyone enjoys my tales as I enjoy sharing them and cant wait until I can add pictures...I bhave one of a cow eating grabge under a sign that says no littering...effing funny
Love you all xoxoxoxo

Friday, April 17, 2009

Corn Islands

So here we go...
I got bed bugs from Hostal Oasis...lovely and anyone who knows me knows I get attacked and to top it off i had about 50 sand fly and mosquito bites as well so it started out pretty uncomfrotable and wanting to come home. The island's power cuts off every morning at 5 am and kicks back in again at 2 pm so you have to rely on diving and relaxing on beaches. Being the water baby, I went diving all week, I tried to do a hammerhead shark dive but I only caught the tail end of him.
So I went to the islands with 2 Ontario girls...one way to get attention in Nicaragua is to be blond and two of us are tall.... So we had to be at the Managua airport for 5 am which means we had to leave Granada in a shuttle at 4 am. Alyson's birthday was the night before and she got the smart idea to drink and not sleep...mental note, dont do this EVER. She was at a seperate hostel from mine and Lauras so we came in the shuttle to get her. The hostels are locked down here so the guard wouldnt let us in and she was sleeping, nor would he wake her up...lovely. We had to race to the airport and fortunately Alyson woke up a few minutes after we left and got a cab quickly and made it in time. She said the guy's face was priceless when he noticed she was sitting outside waiting for a shuttle that had left. The plane is a thing of its own, you can actually see the pilots while in air....funny
Once on the island we went to Sunshine Hotel owned by a Texan named Dustin, this is the best place on the island to stay in my eyes and we met incredibly great ppl. We ended up staying later because of our love for the place. If you miss your booked flight here, you can just use your ticket for another day, random but perfect. Mangoes fall form the trees here, one hit a dog in the head and he had no idea what to do for a minute, it is cruel to laugh at this but I cant help it, it was quite the site. A 2 tail lobster dinner runs $15 and is so awesome, that was my easter dinner. If a bar is closed they call the owner and he comnes down and opens the place...Very strange.
So let me tell you about the ppl I met because they helped make my vacation...

Laura / is from Toronto and is tall and blonde like me, we have similar thoughts and she truly a friend Ill keep forever

Kevin is the South African dive instructor who stole my heart and I hope our paths cross again soon

Alyson is the Ontario dietician who keeps missing shuttles and snorkeling trips. I did discover scuba with her and she threw up when we finished and got up to the surface..

David is the Canadian who makes me laugh just by looking at me...to David from scarecrow / I will box punch you

Isaac is the Calgarian traveling with David and they both work in IT....strange

Ruby is from Chicago and her mom is an official member of Original Gangsters. She carries a shank, mace and beating stick with her at all times and says Buenos Dias monkey to the tied up monkey....when i do my Ruby impression, you will laugh

In the end I loved Little Corn island and the diving, it is def a place I recommend you going to if you can but be warned it is extremely sad to leave and Ill never forget any of the friends I have made here

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Nica Love

SO after an action packed entrance into Nicaragua things soared upwards quickly. On the very long boat ride in I was introduced to the very pleasant Sita, she is a California native at heart but has since fallen in love with a NIcaraguan and has speny her last 5 months living in Granada. She graciously took me all over the city showing me the sights an sounds and introducing me to the nation's best dishes and of course Happy Hour. Get this 2 mojitos for 25 cordoba which roughly translates into $1.25USD. As you can guess this gets dangerous quickly however is a great time. Sita also showed me mango chips, which is basically 3 cut up mangoes in a bag for 5 cordoba which is ridiculous because one mango at home runs about $1.50 and now Im getting 3 for a quarter...one word...AWESOME. I suppose this works tho because Sita has also told me that minimum wage in Nicaragua is approx .60USD per hour with a great wage being as high as $2.00 respectively.
The other thing Nicaragua has alot of...Canadians and im not kidding, everyone is Canadian. In my first hostal alone the Hostal Oasis there was 1 couple from Red Deer, 2 girls from Ontario and a guy, One Ottawantoian and various others. After a few days in Granada I decided to get away from the big city and move to the laguna to stay at Crater's edge in Apoyo, the cleanest water in Nicaragua. Upon arrival I discover that the hostal is run by Ann with the help of her niece Lisa who are from Vancouver BC. Out of 30 ppl, 2 are American and 1 is from Holland, 2 from Ireland 4 from Australia but 2 of them have been working at Lake Louise for the year and everyone else is Canadian and mostly Albertan. I kid you not there were 2 couples from Red Deer, how crazy is that and last but not least a waitress from Melrose which we all know is Calgary's top Red Mile lounge.
On arrival i promptly signed up for a massage and have since had another. It is about $15 per hour and is done by Julio, a blind man who actually worked the golf ball outta my neck, something masseuses in Canada havent been able to do in 2 years. Can't say I don't love Julio because I do.
I tip 20% to Julio but customary is 10%. The funny thing is it is called voluntary tip but is added to the bill almost everywhere you go. I find this funny.
The 2 Ontario Canadian girls and I have booked flights and a spot on Little Corn island in the Caribbean sea and we leave first thing tomorrow morning. 3 blondes on the island...should be a great time. This week is Semana Santa which is an Easter holiday throughout Central America and is huge, you basically find a place with room and stay there. This Friday is the big procession day and the place comes to a stand still.
Internet is horribly expensive on the island and slow so you wont hear much from me until the 14th or 15th.
Happy Easter all and love you loads

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Arenal to Nicaragua

If you are ever in this area I highly recommend a brand new hotel called Princess de la Luna. It is kinda out of the way but worth it to bring enough food, drinks, etc for the days you are there. From the deck we had the most amazing view of the volcano and got to see the creatures of the rainforest first hand.
We could see the lava spitting from the top of the active volcano which is the coolest thing as well as toucans that flew up into the tree outside the window. I kid you not, if you stay at this place you dont need to pày for the overpriced tours because you are in the centre of everything in a beautiful hotel with amazing staff.
One of the ladies took us onm a canopy-rainforest walk and we saw all kinds of things from waterfalls to extinct fruits that they are growing there to replenish. They picked and cut down all types of things for us...I had heart of palm which you actually have to destroy an entire palm tree to get, guava, gyuana, cocoa, coconuts etc. I was half way thru my guava when I found a worm in it...if anyone remembers the plum story form Long View you know it will be a very long time before I eat guava again if ever but it was fun none the less and the worm had his head so that works. The staff showed us a Boa they found which was dinner for later (not ours theirs) so needless to say it was quite the adventure and I would happily return.
After 3 glorious nights Dorothy and I decided to end our honeymoon and go our seperate ways, she back to Panama (jealous) and me to meet an old friend Steve then off to Nicaragua. I got on the bus in Ciudad Quesadas (San Carlos to locals) ad bus to Los Chiles in the far north for a water taxi to San Carlos Nicaragua.
On this bus ride I came to learn how polite Costa Rican men are, they will always give up their seat on the bus to women especially those pregnant or with a child or baby. Men in North America could really take a lesson or two from this.
Once in Los Chiles I spent a good hour in line waiting for immigration - they had caught a large family sneaking into Costa Rica from Nicaragua and were documenting this and water taxiing them back. It was quite the procedure for 35 degree heat. A Venezuelan man with good English and his wife walk me thru the first steps and point out monkeys along the way and river sharks on our journey by water taxi to Nicaragua.
We get to San Carlos NIcaragua which is a dusty border town and once I pay the netrance fee of $7 I discover I have absolutely no cash on me, just visa and guess what they have NO bank machine and then I get called a bitch by some crazy woman in the street. I head to the bank because I need to find a place to stay and a way out of town the next day. At the bank I learn that the only cash they give out is to those with a bank account at that branch or exchange dollars or Euros. Truly I am amazed at how much Spanish is falling from my mouth and how much I understand because no one speaks English and somehow we all know what the other is saying. This is the only good thing for me to this point but not helpful. They direct me to the best hotel in town which is honestly the Cecil hotel but it accepts visa and the next day will give me cash off my visa for a 10% commission...I cry for about half hour before I pull my head out of my a$$ and go for food. It is at Kaoma a restaurant which is mentioned as having surly service in Lonely Planet (totally not the case) where I meet my savior Lester, a waiter who I will never forget as he turns my day around completely. In my badSpanish he tells me which times the boat comes, how much, and when to buy the ticket. He notices mosquitos attacking me and brings a citronella candle and some bug spray. Of course at the end of supper i notice they dont have a tip line on visa cards and I of course have no cash so I promise to return in the morning.
I return the next day cash in hand and eat 2 large meals within an hour of eachother because my 16 hour boat ride leaves at 2 pm and I wont eat until the next day. Lester walks me to the boat terminal to make sure I get a first class ticket and on the way stops at the cheapest place for aerosol bug spray (seriously I love this kid) The shop owner tells me it is $150 Cordobas and then asks where I am from...I say Canada and ne knuckle punches me and the price goes down to $120...this is like $1USD but Ill take it.
At 1pm I get on my boat and head off for a very long journey and sleep on a bench for $10USD. At one island kids get on selling everything from tacos, enchiladas, juice, and coffee with milk. It is quite the experience and I share it with a group of Americans who did the same thing and entered without $$$. One of which is a girl who is living here with her boyfriend and on her way back to get me to show me around Granada. Thats where I am now, a SOanish Colonial city called Granada which is quite beautiful at the Hostal Oasis and hoping my laundry is done soon because I have NO clothes and am wearing my bathing suit bottoms as underwear...sigh
Lessons Learned
UNder no circumstance do you ever leave a counrty with no onward cash...spend the few dollars the cash changers make and transfer over whatever you have left but dont assume you will find an ATM
Practice your Spanish even though English is widely spoken, you may butcher the language but it will make any sitution like this so much better. I used every word I had and learned even more. This means read signs everywhere and look up words you dont know in the Spanish English dictionary...they come in so handy and make the experience that much better
Kill mosquitos every chance you get - serious you should see my legs
Dress in a t shirt and capris or pants as a woman when in places that aren´t beach destinations
Always upgrade your room or seat on a bus or boat - In Costa Rica when possible buy your ticket when on the bus and not from the cafes selling them....they are much cheaper
Oh yea and coffee in Central America is unbelievable - as someone who has never been a coffee drinker....damn
Hugs and kisses and thanks to everyone following me thru Central America